Far out, somewhere in Shanghai
Ultraviolet ★★★, No. 8 / 50 Best of Asia, No. 41 / 50 Best 2017
Possibly the world’s most way-out restaurant, Ultraviolet is an experience like no other. Even getting there is an extraordinary process. Search for the address and you’ll find it’s simply ‘somewhere in Shanghai’. To get to this exclusive location, you first turn up at Mr. & Mrs. Bund, Pairet’s other restaurant. From there you are taken to a secret address ‘somewhere in Shanghai’. The room is windowless. There is just one table, which seats ten and is surrounded by projection surfaces. Then begins what Paul describes as ‘psycho tasting’. It’s eating with all your senses. With every dish, the entire room is transformed – its appearance, its smell, its sound, even its temperature. Game is served in the middle of a cool forest, seafood amid roaring surf and refreshing sea breezes. Every course is its own self-contained world. Service is equally unconventional. It’s one big spectacular show, with outstanding food that recognises no constraints and cuts across established boundaries. French by birth, Paul Pairet came to Shanghai in 2005. His concept for Ultraviolet is said to have been 15 years in the making.